Got car issues? Well, we've got the answers! Easily search thousands of entries to find exactly what you're looking for. Need advice on a dealing with a blown head gasket? Oil Leak? Cracked block or leaking radiator? Be sure to leave a comment or question on anything that may interest you. You can also send an email to our pro for direct assistance! Having a squeaky suspension can be one of the most frustrating problems to have in any vehicle. Every time you go over even the smallest bump or make a turn, you have to deal with the squeaks and creaks of your suspension.
Squeaky suspensions are not just embarrassing, they can also be an indication that there is a big problem with your suspension. Besides the annoying noise, a broken suspension system in your vehicle can increase the likelihood of rollovers, make it difficult to control your vehicle in corners and can increase your stopping distance in an emergency.
Suspension issues can also cause your steering geometry to be incorrect which can lead to increased tire wear and difficulty negotiating turns. A squeaky suspension system is not just embarrassing with those squeaking noises and grinding noises, but it is also dangerous and can be extremely difficult to diagnose and fix. You also have a shock absorber by each wheel and in most cases a sway bar or anti-roll bar both in the front and in the back.
Each one of these components have a joint on each end that could be the source of your noise. There are three types of joints commonly used in your suspension components. Ball joints are used when the joint must be able to move in multiple plans such as rotating and moving up and down. For example, the joint at the end of your lower control arm that connects to the steering knuckle needs to move up and down as the spring compresses, but also turn as you turn the steering wheel.
Ball joints are much like your shoulder or hip joint where a stainless steel ball fits in a Teflon cup and provides the range of motion and rigidity needed. Ball joints sometimes have grease fittings in the cup and a rubber boot containing the grease.
If the boot rips these joints can start to make squeaks when you turn. If you find a ball joint with a torn boot, consider replacing it. Bushings are used if the joint only needs to move in one direction, such as up and down or side to side. Bushings are the most common joints in your suspension system and also the most likely to case a squeaky suspension.
Bushings are basically rubber sleeves that go between the frame of your vehicle and the suspension component which allows the suspension component to rotate. Bushings can squeak if the rubber becomes torn or even dried out or if the suspension component starts to rotate inside the metal sleeve inside the bushing due to incorrect torque or a broken bushing.
Worn out bushings cause more movement which in return causes those squeaking noises as well as incorrect suspension geometry. If you suspect a squeaking bushing, try spraying a small amount of lubricant on the bushings to see if the noise goes away temporarily. If it does, consider replacing the bushing.
For an even quieter ride, consider using polyurethane bushings. The last type of joint used is a simple rubber mount.Log in or Sign up. Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums.
I assume if not dangerous the noise is not an MOT failure in itself. It's done a lot of miles over uneven mountain roads and last two weeks have been around 40 degrees so maybe that's why it's dried out? Any tips appreciated, Ben. Messages: 4, Likes Received: 1, Joined: Jan 2, Location: gainsboroughlincolnshire Your Mercedes: w cdir kland rover discovery 3insignia vxrshitron dispatch. Most times it's the lower outer bush which is pressed into the hub Cole MBSJun 27, Most of us have had this noise from time to time.
The multi link suspension is the fault. It may be just dry or worn out bushes and rubbers.
Squeaking/Creaking rear suspension
I had the same last summer and did mine with old ATF fluid. But this dry weather as bought it back again. Now i have purchased a few tins of silicone spray.
So this is the next jub in line. Had a look underneath it and that rear suepension is quite busy I remember Terry from WG telling me 18 months ago last time it went to a proper mechanic that the bush was past it's best so makes sense it's that that's causing it.
Regarding play, car wanders more in wind than it used to but not as bad as my other Ws. The tyre wear on all four tyres is perfectly straight and I can't feel any obvious play so will see if it gets through MOT anyway. Other than that what else is there to check before a 2k trip and then MOT? It did get to degrees the other day but that was a 1,m climb in 38 degrees with 3 passengers so I'm guessing this is acceptable and not a cooling system fault? You might take a look at the front and rear propshaft rubber coupling for splits.
Take some water along with you and extra OVP relay along with a fuel pump relay. Set of plugs. Puncture type of repair in a canister in case of a flat. Good luck, and let us now after the trip. Try testing the shocks with the foot brake off, the brake shoes can squeak when the car is pushed down they do this as the wheel moves a tiny amount as car goes down unless the brake is put on very hard.
You may notice similar noise when oarked on a hill and exiting the car etc. DougJun 29, The wandering may also be caused by a worn steering damper. Steering damper and prop shaft couplings replaced a couple of years ago.
The squeaking was tested with the handbrake off to eliminate this as a possiblity. It also happens when the car is moving, though not since I silcioned it.Never had that issue with a Toyota or a Jeep. Most of the time anyway. Is that true? Then 30K miles later I might have to do it all over again.
I tried OEM parts and aftermarket parts. Fun fact : My Jeep Cherokee has Zerk fittings all over the front suspension. You get yourself a grease gun and some grease and spend a couple of minutes once or twice a year servicing the ball joints. Two decades later my Jeep is still running all original suspension.
OK, shocks are new. It all begins with squeaking usually. Or clunking. Kinda embarrassing actually…. It can be replicated by bouncing the the hood up and down or by laying on your back from under the car as shown. From under the car it is clear that the noise is coming from the sway bar bushings.
Since I installed these bushings only 30K miles prior and since they look fine I was suspicious. If the squeaking is less then get yourself a set of good replacement bushings. The sway bar bushing replacement is easy. Torque the bolts to the correct specification with a good torque wrench.
One stripped bolt turned a twenty minute DIY into an adventure. You can read about it here. But then I go ahead and fix it and all is well for a while.
But back to the Mercedes… It all begins with squeaking usually. Kinda embarrassing actually… It can be replicated by bouncing the the hood up and down or by laying on your back from under the car as shown. Twenty minutes start to cleanup. Until something else starts squeaking. Share on Tumblr.
Easier to change the arm rather than ball joints. Was OK for a short drive, no squeak. But after a longer drive, both front suspensions started to squeak again. What can be wrong now?
New ball joints faulty?
Squeaking/Creaking rear suspension
From your comment regarding ease of replcement is your car a W? The car is - E class, W The old ball joints had gone - rubber ripped and grease was out.
Jacking up the car and disturbing the suspension is enough to give you a quiet spell until the cars suspension settles back fully. Access to a ramp and some one hefty to bounce the car is a good direction then some squirty stuff, washing up liquid will suffice, you can then systematically work through the joints.
It doesn't sound like the ball joints were the cause even though they were damaged. FrontstepAug 16, Put the car on a ramp and its the ball-joint pointing upwards! There is some "play" in the wheel. Did a search Does anyone know any place where I canhire this tool? Or if it cheaper?Ideally, vehicle would only make two kinds of noise: the "vroom" of a revving engine, and maybe a pleasantly deep burble at idle.
Beyond that, every single noise a vehicle makes is either an annoyance or a sign that something has gone wrong. Suspension squeaks are tremendously common on older vehicles for the same reason that door and floor squeaks are common on older houses. Most aren't signs of terminal failure, but all make your prize ride sound like an ailing bucket on its last leg. A squeak or chirp is a high frequency sound wave, and requires the same thing that all high frequency waves to: a very rapidly oscillating or vibrating surface that vibrates the air.
In an automobile, the inevitable cause of squeaking is a surface moving against another surface, which grabs and releases it thousands of times a second. Anywhere two parts come into contact is suspect, but especially so are places where metal itself vibrates because of contact with other metal, or with rubber. Of course, in application, that means practically every part of your suspension, which can contain dozens or hundreds of moving parts. The hardest part about fixing a squeaking suspension may just be figuring out where the sound is coming from.
You can stick your head under the vehicle and listen around while someone else bounces the body. But this isn't just dangerous, it's also often ineffective because sound has a way of bouncing around in misleading ways. You may think you're hearing the sound of a spring creaking against the body, when you're really hearing the ball joints 12 inches away. A medical-type stethoscope can be helpful, but it's hard to use, and you run the risk of crushing your fingers.
Instead, you can build a simple sound probe using a inch-long, small-diameter metal rod and a small plastic tube. Just slip one end of the tube over the end of the rod, and plug the other into your ear. Touch the other end of the rod to the suspect area while an assistant bounces the vehicle; if you've found the squeak, it will come through probe and into your ear, loud and clear. Nine times out of 10, suspension squeaks come down to a lack of lubrication between two metal components, or a metal component and a rubber one.
If you have a suspension with grease fittings on the ball joints, sway bar end-links and steering links, then start by pumping them all full of grease. There's a good chance that this in itself will solve the problem. The rubber isolators between the tops of coil springs and the spring cubs in the body are also common culprits. Often times, you can stop squeaking here by dropping the springs, and slathering both sides of the isolators with bearing grease; other times, they may be completely worn out and in need of replacement.
While you're at it, use a paint brush to grease the coil springs where the coils come close together; worn-out springs will tend to collapse in this area, causing the coils to rub against each other. Really, this means you need new springs -- but some grease will usually quiet the existing springs for a week or two. Ball joints and suspension bushings will often start to squeak when they're on the verge of failure.
These sources are hard to sort out, though, which makes some sort of sound probe critical for finding them. Bad ball joints will generally exhibit more profound symtoms, like thumping over bumps and vibration or vagueness in the steering.
Bushings -- the little rubber cylinders between you suspension arms and body or steering knuckle, or sway bar and body -- are often harder to track down. Some have grease fittings, but grease alone won't save a bushing that has been torn to shreds by time and use.
These will squeak constantly, because it's effectively rubber rubbing on rubber.I have replaced tires and alignment is complete. No leaks spotted on left side suspension systems during tire replacement.
Can you guys what's going on so I can get it fixed? Hi there - this noise could be from suspension link or bushing control arm or sway baror from the spring seats. This is the sort of random noise that springs up after some years of service. Will probably require putting the car up on a lift, with a helper to press down on the front fender to simulate a bump, to help locate exactly what. For assistance with diagnosis, I recommend a suspension inspection performed by a mobile, professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, who will come to your location, diagnose this problem, and give you an accurate assessment of damage and cost estimate for repairs.
Q: E Mercedes Benz squeaky Noise occassionally from left wheel area when driving over a bump or just driving. My car has miles. My car has an automatic transmission. David Gaines Wooten Automotive Mechanic. Thank David. Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback! Sorry about that.How to replace a lower control arm. Suspension practice. W203 Mercedes C.
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Search My Stuff What's New 3 12 24 CLS Suspension squeak. Will whip a wheel off and have a look tomorrow, anyone changes one, looks easy enough, any pitfalls? Or will they be crap? Stegel 1, posts months. I have had a few joints replaced by the MB garage on my CLSowned from new, k miles and on one occasion it took them three goes the last two FOC to locate the source of the squeak, so it is by no means straightforward diagnosing the faulty part.
I as in DIY have just replaced all lower arms, lower ball joints and drop links on mine, using a complete Febi kit, as I figured at this mileage all parts would be getting tired, and it certainly tightened things up to a surprising extent.
First time I have done something like this, but quite straightforward really. The first side took about 6 hours, but the second, having figured out how to access bolts etc. Only perplexing part was the original lower arms simply had circular bolts with circular holes in the bushes - the replacements had bolts with grooves that allowed elongated holes with ribs to be assembled in such a way as to adjust camber; for now I have reproduced the negative camber as per the original set up, but I plan on changing the top mounts and track rod ends in the next couple of weeks at which time I will then get it set up by a specialist - a reduction in camber may prolong the life of the front tyres which lose their inner shoulders.
As to Febi quality, apparently they supply MB and the parts all seemed decent enough and similar to the old ones removed. Lemforder is one alternative, I believe they also supply MB, and there are other brands which I presume are simply pattern parts, but I don't know enough to say which is best. Edited by Stegel on Tuesday 29th March Wow, cheers for taking the time for such an informative reply! Did you need any specialist tools, looks like I need some kind of press to do the ball joints as well as a splitter.
I used a Sealey ball joint splitter for disassembly. As you note, you need a press tool to replace the main ball joint in the base of the hub carrier; I read so many reports of the cheap copies failing I wimped out and bought the Laser press probably made in the same factory as some of the copies, but at least someone to complain to if it failed! It worked great, and given we have a in the family too, also due a refresh, I figured it was worthwhile, particularly given the overall saving made by spending time under the car myself.
Took, the passenger side front wheel off and had a look around, cant find anything with any play in, had a good prod round with a bar and no obvious movement, only thing I notice was the level sensor for the Airmatic was completely dry and seemed to grate when moved, took it off and cleaned it and put a bit of copper slip on.
Took it round the block and completely silent, but that fits with what happened before, have only noticed it at the end of longer journies, perhaps when there is more heat in it so perhaps something expands and lets a bit of play in.